Romeo & Juliet Update.. (see previous post 26th Nov)

OK, so quite some time has past since I posted about my involvement on the Romeo & Juliet project.. A lot has happened in that time and plans had changed, including the amount of input and involvement that was required by the group. It has now all come to an end and the production is currently being shown at the New Players Theatre in London, but because of my lack of updates I will backtrack on the details and tell you more about my part in the project...

So from where I left off in the last post, I had met the other girls involved - 2 recent graduates from the BA Costume Design course here at the Institute, a full time mum who has had previous experience making costumes for local productions, and a 6th form student who is going to be enrolling on the Foundation Art & Design course next year (same as what I did last year). So it was nice that we all had local connections of some sort.

2nd Group Meeting

Our task mentioned in the previous post was to come up with our individual design ideas ready to put forward to the group. I had spent quite a bit of time researching and reading up about Renaissance dress from books in the library, as well as watching the Zeferelli film, so this gave me lots of ideas to use in m designs. In this meeting we also met another member of the group, Michalis, who was to be like our team leader as it were! He was mainly going to be involved in the set design but the director, Julia, wanted him to be involved with the costumes as well.

We then then found out that we needed to incorporate more rap and hip hop style references into the costumes, as is reflected in the music and dance, and not just focus on Renaissance styles. We had to try and find a way of incorporating the two into one look that worked - this was really hard to achieve! I began looking at some hip hop references and imagery to help inspire me but I found it rather difficult to mix both styles into one design as I thought it just didnt look right. However I gave it a go and this is some of what I came up with..

3rd Group Meeting
After presenting all our ideas to the group, (some of mine are shown above) we decided that it was quite difficult to put ideas down on paper, so instead we were given the task of hunting through the charity shops in search of items of clothing that we could alter, in order to make them look rap/renaissance. I found a few items - a pair of shorts, pair of tracksuit bottoms, a large t shirt and two sleeveless t shirts. I thought it would be better to use the largest sizes I could find as then I'd be able to create volume within the clothing by gathering certain areas, in order to create a renaissance look.

My renaissance garments made from sportswear

4th Group Meeting
Julia had decided that they wanted Michalis to work more directly on the costumes and to take over the designing. This was understandable as perhaps she wanted someone to be more in charge and who was able to dedicate more time to the costumes. However, it was disappointing and rather annoying as I had put quite a lot of time into the project by now through research and design ideas, time which for me could have been more importantly spent on doing my coursework for uni. The rest of the group were also disheartened as they too put a lot of effort into it, only to find that it was all a bit of a waste. Anyway, on this day we presented what we had found and made from the charity shop finds. It was quite fun as I was able to see what everyone else had put together and we also did some cutting and pinning whilst we were there, playing with fabrics and garments. Michalis showed us some of his ideas of taking sports graments and tracksuits and making them look renaissance. It was very clever and interesting and gave us a clearer idea of what it was he was trying to achieve with the costumes. But still, our roles now were simply to help out with the making of the costumes. We now just had to wait to be told the list of items he wanted us to make and wait for the fabrics and designs to be dropped off to us in Bournemouth from London.

Michalis's creations

Playing with fabrics and draping

Times Passes..

After parting for the Christmas period, eventually in the new year we recieve an email of the shortlist of what we were asked to make.. 2 kilts, 5 pairs of harem style pants and 9 pairs of knee pads. This wasn't going to be too difficult to achieve as there was 5 of us so we were quite happy in this respect. However, it took them a number of days after from when they said the fabrics would be delivered to arrive in Bournemouth ready for us to start working. This was quite frustrating for us as it meant our time allowance was getting shorter and had less time to complete the garments. When the fabrics did arrive there was very little instruction and the designs were very vague which also made it more difficult for us. I am glad I was working with the others in a group as I dont know what I would have done if we weren't able to discuss and share our confusion with the rest of the group! With Michalis and Julia and the rest of the co-ordinators up in London working on rehearsals and the other costumes being made in London, it was difficult to get in contact with them to ask questions. We could also tell that they were very stressed! As a group we managed to complete all the garments on time. The garments I helped with included the sewing of one of the kilts and a number of the knee pads. I was pleased with what I had produced as they all turned out nice and neat and fairly well made, considering the restrictions!

Delevering the Goods

After failing attempts to drop off the costumes to Julia in Bournemouth as planned, it had resorted to needing to deliver them to the theatre in London. It was at very short notice they had asked us to do this which meant I had to rearrange my plans but I did want to go up there and see the set and take photos etc, so I was happy to drive up as they were offering to pay our transport. After a long drive in the dark it was worth it in the end as it was great to be amongst it all, and we were able to help out more directly on the costumes while we were there. Michalis was really pleased with what we had produced which was really satisfying, knowing that we had helped out and did a good job of what they asked. I loved watching the rehearsals also as we got to see some great dancing and got a greater feel for the shows atmosphere. I think I gained the most from this experience of being there amongst all the other people involved on the project, like the other costumes makers, set production and the cast and directors. It was a really fun and friendly atmosphere and I wish I was able to have spent more time up in London working with the production, but of course the distance and commitments meant this was not possible. However I have learnt from the whole process to be more expectant of pushed deadlines and being asked to go that little bit extra! Below are some pictures taken when we got to the theatre, down in the dressing room where the rest of the costumes were being made..

These pictures are of some of the costumes being worn and fitted to the cast members.. complete costume for Lord Montague made by Michalis and co

Harem style pants made by the Bournemouth team

Harem style pants and a top made by Michalis and co

Rehearsals and dancing

Romeo & Juliet Press Release

Just thought I'd tell you a bit more about the play. I have recieved the press release and some literature from the director, giving background information on the production and its aims.

Aims of the production:
"Whilst retaining the original text and Early Modern setting, the production will make a dramatic departure from conventional offerings of the play by exploring and focusing on the racial conflict at its centre. Performed by a culturally mixed cast, with it’s central protagonists Romeo and Juliet portrayed respectively as being of Black African and Caucasian parentage, it will have distinct verbal and visual references to Black culture past and present woven into its tapestry and will feature ethnic music and dance coupled with the music and dance of contemporary urban black culture, an emblem for today’s youth."

The idea behind the show:
"Whilst maintaining the tragedy of a love that could not be, the piece will celebrate cultural diversity, paying important homage to the Africans who formed an essential part of Renaissance society and highlighting fundamental issues surrounding the place of race in Renaissance Italy. Our vision for the piece is inspired in part by historical representations and portraits such as that of the Dutch artist Jan Mostaert, Portrait Of An African. The painting depicts a Black African man who appears to be “fully assimilated” into Renaissance society."

"Imaginative parallels will be drawn between Shakespeare’s ill fated teenagers and the youth of today. The alienation and destruction of young lives featured in Romeo and Juliet, resonate at the heart of contemporary society, where there is growing concern for our discontented youth and despair at the many lives tragically lost. It seems that the teenagers of today are becoming increasingly estranged from the older generation, immersing themselves in gang culture, violence, alcoholism and drug taking. The production will place strong emphasis on this tragedy, the repercussions of violence and the destruction that may ensue from a refusal to listen to each other. Language shifts effortlessly through time weaving stories as it goes and our stories of teenage alienation and rebellion bear an uncanny resemblance to Shakespeare’s tale of ill fated youth. Whilst Romeo’s despair initially finds its voice in Petrachan verse, a growing number of today’s youth express their teenage angst in the poetry of Hip Hop. The creative forces of Hip Hop and R and B music and dance, have become the essential urban street code and African, Gospel and Jazz music and dance lie at their roots. These art forms are rich testimonials of joy and pain, powerful expressions of the self and of society, culture and spirituality. The complex rhymes and beats and sophisticated play on words, can be as striking and poignant as Shakespeare’s verse. He is a master of wordplay, using pun and other devices to show that language is not a static or transparent thing, in the same way that some of our greatest modern musical Rap poets are. This production will break new ground in that it will aim to reveal the depth and range of these music and dance forms. By placing them in an Early Modern setting, the production will reveal their versatility and universality, whilst acknowledging their dignity and beauty -The poetry of Hip Hop for example is limitless, able to infuse even iambic pentameter with its distinct and wonderful flavour. It will offer a version of this classic love story that is grounded in reality, subtly conveying the fascinating journey of Black Africans through history."

I was originally sent this info and press release at the very start of the project but I think it describes the feel for the play much better than I would be able to. After reading it I was immediately excited to be on board. I love that they aim to draw parallels between the issues raised in Shakespearean times to those of today, in particular the presence of race and youth culture which apart from the difference in time, the two aren't actually that far estranged from eachother. I am also really interested to see how the music and dance compositions will be incorporated into the play, as urban music and street dance are styles that I am always facinated by and I think a lot of young people can relate to them both in one way or another. The director has already shown me some clips of the casting auditions for dancers, and they look amazing!! Here are some stills of the video clips..

Trend Update 2009

Came across these highstreet trend and style notes on MSN. Thought I'd make a note of whats going on on the high street this year along side what I'm seeing on the catwalks...

"...
At Miss Selfridge the look and feel is distinctly '80s retro with bleached denim drainpipes, figure hugging dresses and attitude jackets to rock.

For eveningwear however, the look is decidedly more glamorous with lashings of pearls and gold chains galore. Wear yours with attitude over a skimpy black number.

Victoria Beckham launched 2008's wet-Lycra legging trend with aplomb. For the less brave among us however, sleek satin trousers and figure-hugging knee-lengths look to be hot for 2009.
Across the high street a distinct cowgirl feel appears to be emerging, with check and gingham shirts launching alongside bandanas, scarves and crumpled leather jackets.

Last year Littlewoods employed the services of Trinny and Susannah to help them spread their appeal to a younger, savvier market. This year's spring/summer collection looks to be loud and proud as a result.

Sixties chic will always be sassy in our book. And New Look are rocking the trend with this limited edition shift dress (£35), socks (£3) and strappy sandals (£40).

Combining different styles is set to be a key theme for 2009. Who would have thought a Napoleon-style jacket worn with a cute summer dress would work Yet somehow, it does.
Cream military jacket (£40), Blue and white striped scarf (£10), white broderie dress (£30) all from Therapy at House of Fraser.

River Island frequently collects 'Best High Street Store' awards and this year's collection combines feminine dresses with masculine tailoring. Yes, the boyfriend jacket is here to stay for 2009 - as are sky high heels with attitude. All items featured here will be coming to River Island stores this spring.

Nautical navy themes will pepper the high street this year. This frill military jacket (£35) is smart and fresh, by Dorothy Perkins.

Credit crunch times will call for a little flair when it comes to vintage shopping. This cute vintage cowichan is £45 from a selection at Beyond Retro.

When one wants to evoke an air of sophistication, one need look no further than Hobbs. We love the 1920s glamour look.

Make like Sienna Miller and always accessorise with a cute hat. Complete the 80s feel with this ensemble from Littlewoods.

For the young at heart, jumpsuits continue to hit the shops in 2009. This grey workman-like number, accessorised with a pink Belt, is available from Asos.

Remember the cropped Tees we used to admire in Fame? They're back! Get yours from River Island.

Looking to accessorise that cowgirl gingham shirt? Look no further than Principles for a great tassel bag.

Accessories should be worn loud and proud in 2009 - and ruby red is set to be big, big, big. Belt (£28) bag (£70) and shoes (£85) all from Dune.

Men's brogues crept into women's wardrobes in 2008 and the trend is set to continue for 2009. Dune have created their own version with a twist for £99.

Source: http://style.uk.msn.com/fashion/gallery.aspx?cp-documentid=12753650&imageindex=14

Hussein Chalayan at Design Museum

22 January – 17 May

Leading the forefront of contemporary fashion design, the twice named 'British Designer of the Year,' Hussein Chalayan, is renowned for his innovative use of materials, meticulous pattern cutting and progressive attitudes to new technology.

This exhibition will be the first comprehensive presentation of Hussein Chalayan’s work in the UK. Spanning fifteen years of experimental projects, the exhibition explores Hussein Chalayan's creative approach, his inspirations and the many themes which influence his work such as cultural identity, displacement and migration.

Exhibits will include ‘Afterwords’ which explores the notion of ‘wearable, portable architecture’ in which furniture literally transforms itself into garments; ‘Airborne’ bringing the latest LED technology to fashion design with a spectacular dress consisting of Swarovski crystals and over 15,000 flickering LED lights; ‘Before Minus Now’ a dress made of materials used in aircraft construction which changes shape by remote control and ‘Readings’ a dress comprising of over 200 moving lasers presenting an extraordinary spectacle of light.

Open until 10pm Friday 23 January and Friday 24 April. Find out more about the museum's late night openings Design Overtime.

In association with

Fashion VS Sport

Yesterday we went up to London primarily to see the Fashion Vs Sport exhibition at the V&A. The aim for us to realise the connection between Fashion and Sport..

"Sportswear has become an essential part of the modern wardrobe. Trainers and tracksuits are more readily worn than suits, and high performance textiles developed for competition are being integrated into high-end fashion. Fashion Vs Sport examines the way that sports styles are adapted to make fashion statements, both on the street and through high fashion, and how sports and fashion products are consumed, customised and worn."

I quite enjoyed the exhibition for the customisation and adaptations of sportswear into bright and exciting garments, like those featured in the 'Display' and 'Play' sections of the exihbition space. I took notes of some of the articles I liked and did some sketches of interesting shapes within the garments, so I'm able to look back on my research and draw inspiration when I come to my own design ideas.

I'm now really keen to get hold of the brief for this new project as I do like the idea of a sportswear project, because as I've found, the boundaries are so vague that you can do a lot of exciting things based around this topic!

Useful article:

http://www.metro.co.uk/lifestyle/article.html?in_article_id=243612&in_page_id=194

Pattern Cutting & Construction Work

So far this term we have learned various pattern cutting methods, including how to adapt a pattern from the basic block, modelling on the stand, dart manipulation, and lots more. I have really enjoyed the pattern cutting sessions as I like knowing how garments are created, and here we get to understand their constuction a whole lot better by learning about its 2D form aswell as 3D. I also understand and quite like the fact that you have to be quite particular and precise when creating patterns to give the most desireable outcome, as I guess I can be a bit of a perfectionist so I think I'm well suited to pattern cutting! However, I do still find it difficult at times.

I also try to take the same care and precision when constructing garments, which follows on from pattern cutting when we are asked to make the pattern and then construct the full garment. In Contruction Principles sessions we learn about things like lay plans, different sorts of seams, and coming to terms with the new industrial machinery, which can take a while to adjust to! The sessions are heavily industry based so we are often taught different methods to what we are used to from our domestic machine and construction skills. I really enjoy the PCCP unit of the couse as it's so hands-on and I feel I learn alot from this aspect.

Below are some of the items we have created using basic block patterns, manipulating them to give the desired shape and style of design, then put together in calico. They are only meant to be basic toiles to show the construction process, and not intended for wear so no great detail is necessary.

Basic bodice with sleeves, centre back opening

A-line cotton drill skirt with invisible rear zip and waist facing

Jeans style shorts with fly zip and waistband

The last project within the PCCP unit for this term is to construct a women's shirt from start to finish, (pattern cutting to final pressing!) using the knowledge we have gained so far to try and carry it out by ourselves, but with the tutors help when necessary. So far I have created the pattern and cut out from the fabric (which by the way has a stripe pattern just to make it that little bit more difficult!) making sure all the stripes match up on the lay plan. I will post a picture of the finished article in all it's glory when I have completed it!