B&M or Design, B&M or Design...

I am now completely confused and torn between the two routes which I might take in the second year!!

Basically.. today we had what I found to be a really interesting B&M session with Jo. We looked at Sourcing the Product which involves sourcing fabric, materials and production from other countries in order to deliver the correct kind of garments. We also got an idea of what a typical garment might look like when manufactured in specific countries, as most tend to adopt common traights. I found this really interesting and it gave me a better knowlegde of the manufacturing industry and garment make-up.

At the end of the session Jo showed us some photos taken while on one of her sourcing trips to India for her Kite Kids range. I found this so interesting as it sounds really crazy, but I've kind of always been quite interested in factories and the production line for how a mass-produced garment is created. I have thought about what it might be like to work in one as a machinist and I personally think it would be quite interesting.. However after a week or so of sewing the same seams of the same continuous line of garments over and over again, I may think a little different!!

But it was during this session I realised that as a Buyer you may well get the opportunity, if you are lucky, to actually go on sourcing trips like this and visit factories and communicate directly with suppliers, all of which I think I would find really rewarding.. I have come to realise over the past few months that I really want to travel some day and see different parts of the world, so if I were to ever get this opportunity I would jump at the chance!

It is now that I am starting to think that perhaps a job in B&M would be better suited in order to gain more reliable career prospects...??? In the past week or so I have started to become swayed in this direction as the tutors stress the fact that that Design is just so competitive. But Design is what I know and what I LOVE!! However I spoke briefly with Jo and mentioned that I have always wanted to take the Design route, and if it would still be possible to gain a career in B&M even if I choose the Design route in year 2. She mentioned that a Garment Technologist may be a suitable career option, as with a background in Design it would mean I'd have the abilty to really understand fabrics, construction and garment make-up, etc, which are key attributes that a Technologist needs. I also learned from Jo's presentation that large retail companies often employ freelance designers to contribute to their product lines.

1st Term Results and Feedback

The first term was a lot different to the way things are now. In FDP we would be doing quick 3/4 week projects which was OK as it forced me to get the ball rolling quickly and come up with ideas. But it was disappointing not to be able to carry the projects through and actually make any garments. So this term I'm really looking forward to getting stuck into the construction and sampling of my ideas.

After coming back from the Christmas break we were given the marks and feedback from all work done in the first term. For FDP, I stupidly didn't realise that there was a strict time deadline for this work to be handed in, and was running late on that day so it meant I was 10 mins late on handing in. This unfortunately meant I could only achieve minimum pass grade!! :( I was really upset but could only kick myself for not registering the timed deadline!! I knew the timetable said 9.30am but I guess I just didn't click! Anyway, silly mistake which will NOT happen again!! So my mark for the FDP unit stands at just 40%. But I was able to see what I would have got, being the equivalent of a 2:1. I am told that marks in the first term do not count toward your final grade so I guess all I can do is learn from this experience and not to dwell on it. I would have achieved a decent grade so I'm happy in this sense. Comments on this work were that it is "very neat and well presented. However some of the boards presented needed greater consideration of scale." I think though that because we were so pushed for time perhaps some of my work was a little rushed. Again this is why I am enjoying this term as it means I can take me time and produce some good quality work.

In the PCCP unit I managed to achieve 70% (which I think is equivalent to a first?) I really enjoyed this unit as I think my construction skills are strong and I am picking up the pattern cutting techniques quite quickly. Feedback included again, "a neat and well presented folder of work, with in-depth knowledge being demonstrated. Excellent garments." So I am really happy with my PCCP grade. Although I naturally had to ask what would I have to do to gain a higher mark, and this would include examples of extra work that is not compulsory but that would present evidence of further in-depth knowledge, skills and understanding.

Intro to Buying and Merchandising

Last week we had our first real session on Buying and Merchandising. I found it quite interesting to find out about what a Buyer actually does, as I haven't really been to clear about the term in the past. We also found out what a Merchandiser and a Technologist does, which together all three should work hand-in-hand. I found it interesting to learn about the different departments within this area and the levels of hierarchy found in a typical major retail business.

Buyer

- Real focus is to deliver the required profit. 

- Use a balance of trends and history to develop customer focused range

- Build strong relationships with suppliers

- Always focus on competition

- Teamwork and management

Merchandiser

- Real focus is to ensure all financial targets are achieved

- Manages specified budget according to strategy

- Spreadsheets, graphs, systems-based analysis

- Works closely with suppliers to ensure timely delivery of goods

Technologist

- Ensure all garments are 'fit for purpose'

- Ensures fit, make up and fabric meet retailers' specification

- Adapts basic block to create new spec

- Fabric testing

- 'Red seal' sample prior to bulk production

- Ensure critical path deadlines are being met

- Upholds Trading Laws and any ethical or environmental policies the retailer stands by

I now know what each profession entails and am interested in how they all function, but I still think my direction lies in Design rather than B&M or Promotion. However I am still open to learning more about the industry as a whole, as I know it will be important and beneficial to have an in-depth understanding even if I do end up with a career in Design.

London Fashion Week

I am so excited as I am going to be helping out with the dressing of the models for a catwalk at London Fashion Week! It will be for the OnOff Catwalk which is now in it's 10th season at Fashion Week, showcasing on and off schedual designers' work. This year collections from a number of designers are being promoted. I am really interested to see..

Sado

Italian Designer Carlotta Gherzi. The main themes in her collections are nature and movement. She uses high quality silk, wool, cashmere and suede, and creates complex and elaborate elements within the pieces. Generally they are practical and unique in form with playful lines and shapes. The designer claims "I create clothes that come alive on the body. They are not for the wardrobe but for real life".

Rocky S

Seams to already be a well established brand with a wide range of lines including Women's RTW, Couture, 'Club' - a younger and more affordable diffusion line, Homeware and Perfume. The brand looks really sharp but classical, often taking traditional Indian inspirations from his roots.

Osman Yousefzada

Classical and timeless pieces playing with drapery and giving them a quirky edge.

Olivia Rubin
Youthful and exciting ladieswear, historically inspired shapes, bold prints and colours. Very wearable pieces for a young, fun and fashion-concious woman.

Emilio de la Morena

Body-con shapes, considered colour palettes, again very chic and wearable garments with fashion forward flair.

Romeo & Juliet Update.. (see previous post 26th Nov)

OK, so quite some time has past since I posted about my involvement on the Romeo & Juliet project.. A lot has happened in that time and plans had changed, including the amount of input and involvement that was required by the group. It has now all come to an end and the production is currently being shown at the New Players Theatre in London, but because of my lack of updates I will backtrack on the details and tell you more about my part in the project...

So from where I left off in the last post, I had met the other girls involved - 2 recent graduates from the BA Costume Design course here at the Institute, a full time mum who has had previous experience making costumes for local productions, and a 6th form student who is going to be enrolling on the Foundation Art & Design course next year (same as what I did last year). So it was nice that we all had local connections of some sort.

2nd Group Meeting

Our task mentioned in the previous post was to come up with our individual design ideas ready to put forward to the group. I had spent quite a bit of time researching and reading up about Renaissance dress from books in the library, as well as watching the Zeferelli film, so this gave me lots of ideas to use in m designs. In this meeting we also met another member of the group, Michalis, who was to be like our team leader as it were! He was mainly going to be involved in the set design but the director, Julia, wanted him to be involved with the costumes as well.

We then then found out that we needed to incorporate more rap and hip hop style references into the costumes, as is reflected in the music and dance, and not just focus on Renaissance styles. We had to try and find a way of incorporating the two into one look that worked - this was really hard to achieve! I began looking at some hip hop references and imagery to help inspire me but I found it rather difficult to mix both styles into one design as I thought it just didnt look right. However I gave it a go and this is some of what I came up with..

3rd Group Meeting
After presenting all our ideas to the group, (some of mine are shown above) we decided that it was quite difficult to put ideas down on paper, so instead we were given the task of hunting through the charity shops in search of items of clothing that we could alter, in order to make them look rap/renaissance. I found a few items - a pair of shorts, pair of tracksuit bottoms, a large t shirt and two sleeveless t shirts. I thought it would be better to use the largest sizes I could find as then I'd be able to create volume within the clothing by gathering certain areas, in order to create a renaissance look.

My renaissance garments made from sportswear

4th Group Meeting
Julia had decided that they wanted Michalis to work more directly on the costumes and to take over the designing. This was understandable as perhaps she wanted someone to be more in charge and who was able to dedicate more time to the costumes. However, it was disappointing and rather annoying as I had put quite a lot of time into the project by now through research and design ideas, time which for me could have been more importantly spent on doing my coursework for uni. The rest of the group were also disheartened as they too put a lot of effort into it, only to find that it was all a bit of a waste. Anyway, on this day we presented what we had found and made from the charity shop finds. It was quite fun as I was able to see what everyone else had put together and we also did some cutting and pinning whilst we were there, playing with fabrics and garments. Michalis showed us some of his ideas of taking sports graments and tracksuits and making them look renaissance. It was very clever and interesting and gave us a clearer idea of what it was he was trying to achieve with the costumes. But still, our roles now were simply to help out with the making of the costumes. We now just had to wait to be told the list of items he wanted us to make and wait for the fabrics and designs to be dropped off to us in Bournemouth from London.

Michalis's creations

Playing with fabrics and draping

Times Passes..

After parting for the Christmas period, eventually in the new year we recieve an email of the shortlist of what we were asked to make.. 2 kilts, 5 pairs of harem style pants and 9 pairs of knee pads. This wasn't going to be too difficult to achieve as there was 5 of us so we were quite happy in this respect. However, it took them a number of days after from when they said the fabrics would be delivered to arrive in Bournemouth ready for us to start working. This was quite frustrating for us as it meant our time allowance was getting shorter and had less time to complete the garments. When the fabrics did arrive there was very little instruction and the designs were very vague which also made it more difficult for us. I am glad I was working with the others in a group as I dont know what I would have done if we weren't able to discuss and share our confusion with the rest of the group! With Michalis and Julia and the rest of the co-ordinators up in London working on rehearsals and the other costumes being made in London, it was difficult to get in contact with them to ask questions. We could also tell that they were very stressed! As a group we managed to complete all the garments on time. The garments I helped with included the sewing of one of the kilts and a number of the knee pads. I was pleased with what I had produced as they all turned out nice and neat and fairly well made, considering the restrictions!

Delevering the Goods

After failing attempts to drop off the costumes to Julia in Bournemouth as planned, it had resorted to needing to deliver them to the theatre in London. It was at very short notice they had asked us to do this which meant I had to rearrange my plans but I did want to go up there and see the set and take photos etc, so I was happy to drive up as they were offering to pay our transport. After a long drive in the dark it was worth it in the end as it was great to be amongst it all, and we were able to help out more directly on the costumes while we were there. Michalis was really pleased with what we had produced which was really satisfying, knowing that we had helped out and did a good job of what they asked. I loved watching the rehearsals also as we got to see some great dancing and got a greater feel for the shows atmosphere. I think I gained the most from this experience of being there amongst all the other people involved on the project, like the other costumes makers, set production and the cast and directors. It was a really fun and friendly atmosphere and I wish I was able to have spent more time up in London working with the production, but of course the distance and commitments meant this was not possible. However I have learnt from the whole process to be more expectant of pushed deadlines and being asked to go that little bit extra! Below are some pictures taken when we got to the theatre, down in the dressing room where the rest of the costumes were being made..

These pictures are of some of the costumes being worn and fitted to the cast members.. complete costume for Lord Montague made by Michalis and co

Harem style pants made by the Bournemouth team

Harem style pants and a top made by Michalis and co

Rehearsals and dancing

Romeo & Juliet Press Release

Just thought I'd tell you a bit more about the play. I have recieved the press release and some literature from the director, giving background information on the production and its aims.

Aims of the production:
"Whilst retaining the original text and Early Modern setting, the production will make a dramatic departure from conventional offerings of the play by exploring and focusing on the racial conflict at its centre. Performed by a culturally mixed cast, with it’s central protagonists Romeo and Juliet portrayed respectively as being of Black African and Caucasian parentage, it will have distinct verbal and visual references to Black culture past and present woven into its tapestry and will feature ethnic music and dance coupled with the music and dance of contemporary urban black culture, an emblem for today’s youth."

The idea behind the show:
"Whilst maintaining the tragedy of a love that could not be, the piece will celebrate cultural diversity, paying important homage to the Africans who formed an essential part of Renaissance society and highlighting fundamental issues surrounding the place of race in Renaissance Italy. Our vision for the piece is inspired in part by historical representations and portraits such as that of the Dutch artist Jan Mostaert, Portrait Of An African. The painting depicts a Black African man who appears to be “fully assimilated” into Renaissance society."

"Imaginative parallels will be drawn between Shakespeare’s ill fated teenagers and the youth of today. The alienation and destruction of young lives featured in Romeo and Juliet, resonate at the heart of contemporary society, where there is growing concern for our discontented youth and despair at the many lives tragically lost. It seems that the teenagers of today are becoming increasingly estranged from the older generation, immersing themselves in gang culture, violence, alcoholism and drug taking. The production will place strong emphasis on this tragedy, the repercussions of violence and the destruction that may ensue from a refusal to listen to each other. Language shifts effortlessly through time weaving stories as it goes and our stories of teenage alienation and rebellion bear an uncanny resemblance to Shakespeare’s tale of ill fated youth. Whilst Romeo’s despair initially finds its voice in Petrachan verse, a growing number of today’s youth express their teenage angst in the poetry of Hip Hop. The creative forces of Hip Hop and R and B music and dance, have become the essential urban street code and African, Gospel and Jazz music and dance lie at their roots. These art forms are rich testimonials of joy and pain, powerful expressions of the self and of society, culture and spirituality. The complex rhymes and beats and sophisticated play on words, can be as striking and poignant as Shakespeare’s verse. He is a master of wordplay, using pun and other devices to show that language is not a static or transparent thing, in the same way that some of our greatest modern musical Rap poets are. This production will break new ground in that it will aim to reveal the depth and range of these music and dance forms. By placing them in an Early Modern setting, the production will reveal their versatility and universality, whilst acknowledging their dignity and beauty -The poetry of Hip Hop for example is limitless, able to infuse even iambic pentameter with its distinct and wonderful flavour. It will offer a version of this classic love story that is grounded in reality, subtly conveying the fascinating journey of Black Africans through history."

I was originally sent this info and press release at the very start of the project but I think it describes the feel for the play much better than I would be able to. After reading it I was immediately excited to be on board. I love that they aim to draw parallels between the issues raised in Shakespearean times to those of today, in particular the presence of race and youth culture which apart from the difference in time, the two aren't actually that far estranged from eachother. I am also really interested to see how the music and dance compositions will be incorporated into the play, as urban music and street dance are styles that I am always facinated by and I think a lot of young people can relate to them both in one way or another. The director has already shown me some clips of the casting auditions for dancers, and they look amazing!! Here are some stills of the video clips..